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Glossary of terms used in screen printing & embroidery

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Term Definition
Angle

The angle of the dot is the angle at which the dots chain together. The problem with most computer graphics programs is that the angles of the halftones are generally great for offset printing but not good for screening. A lot of computer programs use 45 degrees as the default angle. Actually, 20 to 25 degrees is good for basic halftone work. If you are doing a process color job you can try Cyan 15, Magenta 45, Yellow and Black 75, or Cyan 22.5, Magenta 52.5, Yellow and Black 82.5.

Butt Registration

Each color for screen printing requires a film positive for each color area of the artwork. But registration is where each color Butts up against each other exactly, with no overlay.

Camera-ready artwork

This means that the printer can pick up the sheet of paper you've given her, take it over to the camera that makes plates for the press, take a picture of it, and print your material. If there are any steps between the counter and the camera, like adding a photograph, or moving a line of text, or separating colors, it isn't camera-ready.

Digitize

When you "digitize" something, you convert it from analog to digital. this is used to tell our embroidery machine how to move the needle and sew to create embroidered designs from your artwork

Discharge inks

used only to print lighter colors onto dark tee shirts, they remove the dye in the garment Like Bleaching. – this means they leave a much softer texture. They are less graphic in nature than plastisol inks, and exact colors are difficult to control, but especially good for distressed prints and under-basing on dark garments that are to be printed with additional layers of plastisol.

DPI (Dots-per-inch)

Generally used to describe printer resolution and often used to describe scanner resolution. Obviously the higher the number the better the resolution of the image. By doubling the number the resolution actually becomes four times larger. In the old days (a few years ago) 300 dpi was the norm for a laser printer. Unfortunately, at 300 dpi, the edges of the image were still a little ragged and at 300 dpi a halftone will only generate around 16 gray levels. A 600 dpi halftone will give you over 300 gray levels. DPI is also used as the designation for a scan. Like printers, the higher the number the higher the resolution. Most scanners default to 300 dpi when they should really be set much higher when scanning line art.

Flash-Curing

Most screen printing on garments is done with wet ink going onto wet ink. Certain jobs and most dark garment prints need to have key colors (such as white) dried or cured before another color can print on-top of it. On an automatic press a flash-curing heater replaces one of the print heads. Some jobs also need a short cool-down period before the next color is printed. Therefore, what appears to be a simple six color design with one flash-cure would need a minimum of eight printing stations - six for the colors, one for the flash heater and one for the cooldown. Flash-curing will often slow the production cycle of the job.

Halftone

A series of large and small dots that represent image areas of a continuous tone image. Continuous tone artwork can be converted into printable halftone dots using a process camera or by scanning into a computer and outputting onto film or paper as a series of dots. Even the photos in magazines are printed as a series of halftone dots. They are just smaller than we use in garment printing.

LPI (Lines-per-inch)

This actually refers to the number of dots-per-inch in a halftone but the term is LPI and NOT DPI. You can see where LPI and DPI can get confused. This term is also known as the frequency in computer graphics (frequency of lines-per-inch). The standard LPI of a screen printable design is 35 lpi to 45 lpi for cartoon type work and from 55 lpi for manual process prints to 65 lpi for automatic process prints. The higher the number the smaller the dot and the harder it is to put on a screen.

Moiré Pattern

A moiré is an interference of two patterns. It generally has a checkerboard pattern to it. You get moiré’s when using patterns on patterns - as you do when you put halftone dots on screen mesh and/or halftone dots on screen mesh on a shirt pattern. Moiré patterns can be reduced or even eliminated by using a different angle (see Angles) and using a higher mesh count in relation to the LPI of the halftone. The general rule of thumb has been that to reduce moiré patterns use a mesh that is 4 to 5 times the LPI. In example, when using a 50 LPI halftone, a mesh count of 200 would be a good start. There have been lengthy articles written about moiré.

Nylobond

A catalyst ink additive for printing onto technical or waterproof fabrics. creating a epoxy type of material and bond to the garment.

Percentage

The amount of coverage in a halftone dot is called Percentage or Tint. A 10% dot is much smaller than an 80% dot. When screen printed, a dot grows in size. This is called dot gain and it can be as much as 30% when printing on an automatic press and 40% when using a manual. For this reason you should try not to apply any tints in designs above 70% (they will just grow and be a solid). It is also important to take into account dot gain when using tints. Always use a smaller tint percentage than you think because in most drawing programs you cannot specify the dot gain (you can in Photoshop!).

Plastisol ink

Plastisol is used as ink for silkscreen printing on to textiles. Plastisols are the most commonly used inks for printing designs on to garments, and are particularly useful for printing opaque graphics on dark fabrics.

Plastisol Ink

the most common ink used in commercial garment decoration. this is a plasticine or plastic ink. it is extremely dense and opaque, It can be given additives to make it translucent. When heat cured it is Preeminently adhered to the textile. a catalyst can be added for Poly and Nylon garments. it comes in neon or day-glow colors, glitters, puff, crystalline and many other forms.

PMS Pantone Color match

Stands for Pantone Matching System, a proprietary system of choosing ink colors for printing. Each color has a number, and the numbers correspond to a formula. The formula includes the percentage of each ink color to be mixed.

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